How
to revive a hard drive (Part - 1)
Freeze it
From:
Travis Standen
One trick
I have learned as a technician, when the problem is data-read errors off the
platters themselves, is to freeze the hard drive overnight. It makes the
data more 'readable,' but for a one-shot deal. If this data is critical, and
you have a replacement hard drive (which, if it's a drive failure, you probably
do), then you can hook up your frozen hard drive and immediately fetch the data
off before it warms up.
From:
Thedeedj
If the
problem is heat related, I put the drive in the freezer for about 15
minutes to cool it down... sometimes this gets the drive up long enough to copy
any critical files...
From:
Itguy1
Put the
drive in a waterproof sealed bag, put it in the fridge for an hour or so, then
have another go.
From:
Kelly Reid
Well, I
won't start playing with your specific situation, too many steps or possible
solutions where everything starts "If that last thing didn't work
try..."
But I'll
give you one for free that was a nice hero moment for me. Had a drive where it
sounded like the drive motor was engaging but not getting anywhere, so we stuck
it in the office freezer for an hour! I'll be darned if it didn't work.
The drive was up long enough to get the data ghosted to another drive and we
turfed it, even though it sounded fine at that point. I can't really take
credit for it though—I had heard it in some geek bull session but I thought it
was some jedi-geek urban myth. Goes to show you that you know you're really
screwed when you say something to the effect of "Okay, hold on tight, I'm
gonna try something I saw in a cartoon once but I'm pretty sure I can do it"
From: mpicpu
If this
drive isn't spinning up, putting it in the freezer for about an hour
will usually get the drive spinning again so you can copy needed files before
the drive warms up again. The first thing you want to do is run a disk utility
like Norton disk doctor or wddiag (if it's a western digital drive) to verify
whether the drive is working mechanically or not. If it is a master boot record
problem, sometimes running Fdisk/mbr will correct the problem. It could also be
a virus, and a program like F-prot will look at the drive as a physical unit.
As an A+ PC technician I have seen this problem many times. Usually if the
drive is not making a clicking sound I am successful in recovering the data.
From:
Scott Greving
I've run
into this scenario numerous times. One time it involved the main Novell SYS
volume on our HP File Server. I was really sweating as the server would not
boot. I took the drive out and put it in a freezer for 30 minutes. I
then reinstalled it into the file server and Presto! I was up and running.
Needless to say I quickly mirrored the drive onto another and got rid of the
bad drive.
In stand
alone client systems, the method I've had the most luck with reviving drives
from death has been removing the drive, firmly tapping the top of its case
several times, and then re-installing it making sure all cables are secure.
I've had a better than 60 percent success rate with this method.
From:
jphillips
If the
drive is spinning and you are experiencing these kinds of errors, my experience
has been that you are out of luck.
If the
drive is not spinning, I have been able to remove it from the computer and
'spin' the drive on a flat smooth surface (much like spin the bottle). This
will usually free the drive and when placed back in the machine, it will boot.
You should immediately back up you data after a successful boot, because the
problem will return.
The next
'fix' was actually given to me by a Compaq technician several years ago. I had
a drive that would not spin and he told me to put the drive in a plastic bag in
the freezer overnight and then install back in the computer. Believe it
or not, the drive booted. I have only tried this the one time.
From:
John Turcotte
In the
past, when a drive has failed after it has been running for a short period, I
have removed it from the machine and placed it in a freezer for a couple
of hours, then hooked it up again. It sometimes will run long enough to remove
the data to another safe storage medium.
From:
David Furlow
One of the
methods I have used before (sometimes even successfully) is to actually remove
the drive from the PC, place it in the freezer for a day, then quickly
put it back in the machine and try to access it. Why does this work? Who knows,
but I heard about this tactic years ago, and it has saved my behind on a couple
of occasions. (Of course, if it comes back up, back up the data immediately....
Guess that should go without saying.)
From:
Keri D.
Hard drive
revival:
A
technique I have learned is if you bring the temperature of the hard drive down
to the freezing point by putting it in a freezer first and then taking
it back out, somehow the condensation from bringing it back to room temperature
helps revive it for about 20 minutes. It can be repeated about 5-6 times tops.
Long enough to get out any important files that need to be backed up. It has
been proven to work a number of times.
From:
Christopher Post
How do you
bring a hard drive back to life?
My
situation:
Half of a
volume set goes south on a WinNT server, no good backup and an angry boss
screaming about the data being mission critical.
My
solution:
** A bit
unorthodox but, it has saved my butt! **
·
Turn off the server.
·
Take out the failing hard drive and wrap a
static bag around it.
·
Throw it in the freezer conveniently
located in the break room.
·
Pray for 1 1/2 to 2 hours.
·
Leaving the hard drive in the bag, quickly plug
the drive back into the server. (Just plug the in cables and go.)
·
Cross fingers, turn it on, and move all data off
the drive as fast as you can! Then add a tape drive and start backing the dumb
thing up!
My
so-called logic:
Metal
contracts when it is cold.... so the platters shrink and increase the clearance
for the read/write heads.
From:
Chris Poole
Put the
drive in the freezer for about a week and then you can usually get one
last read off the drive.
From:
Cheyenne Robert Alspach
Here are
some drive recovery tricks that have worked for me, in the order that I do
them. Try booting the drive and copying the data off after every step.
1. Hold
the drive upside down, making gravity change the head geometry ever so
slightly. Vertical is also another option.
2.
Slightly rap the drive with your knuckle, (but nowhere near hard enough to
damage the drive).
3. Try the
drive in another machine, (slight drive voltage change assumed to be the
miracle worker here).
4. Rap the
drive just SLIGHTLY harder than you did above in 2.
5. Freeze
the hard drive in the freezer for two hours, and place in a plastic zip lock
bag to prevent condensation from forming on the drive when you plug it back
into the system, (head geometry, electrical resistance lowered, electrical
contact points adjusted, etc., assumed to be the miracle here).
6. After
the drive warms up to room temperature or better, rap it even harder with your
knuckle this time.
7. Repeat
all of above steps on next day, as sometimes I've gotten data off drive simply
by trying again.
From:
James McLaughlin
Hmmm
sounds like a toughy to me. Back in the old days when I first started teching,
if we ran into a problem like this, there were only a few ways to deal with it.
I will go over these options now:
QUESTION:
What do you think you can do about this, Mr. Tech?
First
Answe—r—Nothing, your computer is too old, and the data on there is not really
of that much importance. If you really want it back, you can get a hold of a
company called "Total Recall" out of Denver and get charged thousands
of dollars to get your files back. Besides, with Y2K, this machine ain’t gonna
run anyway, and prices are so low right now, there is no reason why you should
not upgrade now.
2) Well, I
can take it back to the shop and pretend like I know what I am doing for 3-6
hours. Then I will call you the for the next week and a half giving you excuses
as to why I am not able to get your information off of that hard drive. Of
course, I won’t charge you anything, but I will expect compensation for all the
time I wasted on your hard drive.
3) I could
take the hard drive out of your machine,
plug into my Secondary IDE controller, and boot up. Hopefully, I can see
your hard drive and have the ability to copy all of your files to a temp folder
on my machine called "Your Name." After I collect all information, I
would run IBM's WIPE on the drive and then a thorough scandisk, just to see if
the cause was sunspot related or not. If......this was not working, then
extreme temperatures always have a way of talking older hard drives into giving
us what we want. I would then wrap the HD in a Ziplock bag and slam it in the freezer
for 12 hours. Pull it out the next day and very quickly plug it into my
machine, copying what I can as quickly as possible until the drive dies again, repeating
until all files are copied and safe. If.....that don’t work, move onto the
extreme heat. A Shrink wrap gun works best, but a hairdryer will do the trick
if that is all you have. Wrap one end of the HD in a towel and use the shrink
wrap gun or dryer to heat the hard drive. Very quickly plug it in and copy
files until finished. Repeat until all necessary files are copied and you are
done.
You may
not think it works, but when you are down to that as your last option...it
does.
From:
Lichtenwalner Allen L TSgt
Solution:
·
Carefully remove it from the computer.
·
Place it in the freezer for 24 hours,
then put it back in the computer. You should have approximately 30 minutes of
good spin time left before a fina–l—and much more permanen–t—shut down.
This problem often arises from a catastrophic hard disk
crash—bearings are usually the culprit, coupled with badly worn read/write
heads. I've used this technique on many computers throughout the last fifteen
years as "resident expert" and saved virtually all important data.
If you're in a pinch for time, such as critical data needed
for a briefing in twenty minutes, you can opt for the more drastic cooling
technique—a C02 fire extinguisher...
From:
Jeff Smoley
Here is a
solution for really dead drives: ones that won't spin or ones that make those
funny grinding noises:
Put the
drive in the fridge for a few hours. This can shrink up something inside that
might let it run long enough to get critical data. If not, try the freezer
for a few more.
This actually
has worked for me in the past.
From:
Neal Menkus
Things we
have done in the past that worked:
1. Remove
the drive, grab it, and shake the hell out of it: "What could it hurt?
It's not working anyway…."
2. Place
the drive in a freezer for about 10 minutes.
3. Open
the drive case in a laminar flow-hood, and give it a spin. (Once it was closed up and reinstalled, it
worked long enough to suck the data off of it.)
4. Swap
the logic board with one on another drive of the same type.
Numbers 1,
2, and 3 worked with older Seagate (which we no longer purchase) drives, which
were prone to "stiction" problems. Number 4 worked following an
electrical surge (lightning strike), since the data on the platters were still
there and OK.
From:
Clifford Liles
Depending
on the drive failure I have had success with some rather extreme solutions to
data recovery.
Symptom:
Invalid Drive Specifications
Treatment: Basic Check
your cmos battery
Check
your IDE cable and connections
Check
your jumper settings
Remove all other IDE connections but
the drive in question
Advanced Try disk manager software
Try
data recovery software
Use
a bios upgrade card ($39) and allow it to setup the drive
Look
up the drive specifications on the manufacturer’s Web site and plug
them in manually.
Turn
Off or On Write Precomp—32bit disk access
Symptom:
Drive does not spin up: "Sticktion"
Treatment: Basics Lightly
tap the side of the drive case with a screwdrive–r—no power
Lightly
tap the side of the drive case with a screwdriver–—power on
Advanced Cold soak the drive: Freeze in a zip-lock bag
Spray
drive case with inverted can of canned air
Lightly
slap the drive on a desk top: (mild frustration)
Repeated
hammering of the drive on a desk top: (last resort—total
frustration
only)
Symptom:
Invalid media type
Treatment: Basics Boot
with a FAT32 Windows 95 boot disk
Sys
the drive
Advanced fdisk /mbr
Check
for a virus from a known clean boot disk
These are
but a few techniques for the doomed platters. These techniques can be used in
conjunction with one another to arrive at the desired solution. Lather, rinse,
and repeat if necessary.
From:
Daniel Philpott
Here is
the solutions checklist for this problem:
Tools
needed:
·
Bootable CD or locked floppy dis–k—Formatted
with an OS that can see the file system of the hard drive. DOS is usually the
preferred OS for this function with NTFSDOS from Sysinternals for NTFS reads
and DOS utilities for diagnostics/repair.
·
It should have the ability to boot to and/or see
CD-ROM drives, read FAT, FAT32, NTFS, or other common file systems, run common
network card drivers and see the network, have disk diagnostic and/or repair
utilities, and have antivirus scanning software with current definitions.
·
OnTrack Data Adviso–r—A free download from www.OnTrack.com Hard Drive (large
capacity)—Formatted for a FAT file system (or whatever is your common file
system) and preferably with BeOS as the boot operating system.
·
Computer Repair Tool Ki–t—Standard repair tools.
·
Freezer–—The one in your kitchen will do
quite nicely.
1. The
first task to recovering a drive is not at all technical—It is social. Prepare
your user for the worst but also explain what the realistic chances of recovery
are. Then start collecting information that you will need. Here is what you
need to know before starting:
·
What is the goal of recovery, returning to the
previous state or recovering the data?
·
Which is most important?
·
What is the client willing to spend on recovery?
·
What OS (NT, 95, Linux) and DOS (FAT, NTFS,
FAT32) was the system running?
·
Where is the computer located?
2. Check the
environment: The last question from step 1 is often forgotten and can lead to
extensive troubleshooting of a simple problem. Look for an environmental
problem that may cause problems for the hard drive. Are there magnets on the
computer case close to the hard drive? Is there a fan or heater near the
computer? Is a transformer, electrical junction box, or high energy device near
the computer (on a floor above or in a nearby wall)? All of these will produce
a magnetic (or electromagnetic) field that can cause problems. Equipment that
may vibrate the computer even at a very low frequency can cause hard drive
heads to skip and jump or even scratch the platters.
3. Turn
off the computer, remove the cover, and get ready to the turn the computer on.
Then put your ear right next to the drive and power the system on. If you hear
any kind of grinding, scratching, or rattling from the drive, turn the computer
off as quickly as possible and go to the next step. Otherwise go on to step 5.
4. If the
disk has made noise that indicates some sort of mechanical stress, then the
problem is the domain of data recovery experts. This is where the client has to
make a decision. Do they want to send the drive to a data recovery service, or
do they want to destroy the disk in an attempt to recover some data? If the
client has information that absolutely needs to be recovered, then send it to
the professionals. Remember, you cannot service a hard drive unless you are
working in a clean room.
If they
are willing to destroy the disk and try to get some data off the drive, there
is a quick hack available. Place the drive in a static-free bag, then place the
drive and static-free bag into a ziplock bag to seal out moisture. Place this
into a freezer turned to as low as possible for 24 hours. After 24
hours, pull the drive out and immediately put it into a computer (the faster
the better) that boots to a floppy and has another hard drive to transfer data
to. If the drive wasn't damaged too much previously, you should be able to pull
some data off before the metal of the drive heats up and starts destroying the
data storage platters. You can repeat the process only if you shut down almost
immediately and go through the 24 hour freeze process again. Chances are that
the first time attempt will be the only chance to recover data.
5. If the
drive boots to an operating system and you can get to either a network or
backup medium, then start copying the most important data off first. Once that
data is off, you can back up less important data. The best bet is to listen to
your client to find out what absolutely must be recovered.
6. If the
client wants to restore the drive to its previous state and continue operating,
then you need to do two things to see if this is feasible.
·
First, run a virus scan on the drive. Update the
virus definitions then scan every file on the computer.
·
Second, boot to a floppy-disk-based hard drive
utility and run a low-level
bad sector
discovery utility.
If both
tests pass and the computer boots to the operating system, then your job is
done and you are eligible for a pat on the back. Otherwise, continue.
7. If the
drive does not boot, then try booting to a bootable CD or a bootable locked
floppy disk. If you can see the file system, continue to step 8.
If you can
not see the file system, then assess your tools. If you have Hard Drive
Mechanic from Higher Ground Diagnostics or Tiramisu from OnTrack, then you can
use these to diagnose and recover data. Otherwise, boot to the Data Advisor
disk to find out whether data can be recovered. They will recover it or suggest
a recovery plan or even require the disk be sent to a data recovery center like
OnTrack. The client needs to make the choice as to whether the expense of this
solution is worth the recovery of the data.
8. If you
can see the file system, then priority actions are:
·
Copy the most important data off the drive
·
Copy the rest of the data off the drive
·
Determine if the drive can be recovered (scan
with virus checker and disk utilities)
·
Repair the operating system
The best
way of doing this is to install your spare hard drive in the computer and boot
to either it or the CD/floppy bootable. Copy the important data off first, copy
the less important data off next, and then do your diagnostics. If your
diagnostics look like the drive is repairable, then go right ahead and repair
it.
The reason
I suggest BeOS be the boot OS on the hard drive is that it has the ability to
mount more file systems than I even knew existed before using it. If you need
to access an exotic file system, BeOS 4.5 is almost sure to have a driver
available for it. However, the FAT (or FAT16) is the most commonly readable
file system around, so generally you will want to transfer data to this file
system.
If it becomes
apparent that the file system is intact and not infected with a virus (or has
had a boot sector virus removed), then you may need to replace the Master Boot
Record (MBR) of the drive. Simple. Boot to a DOS disk that has the fdisk
utility and run an 'fdisk /MBR' to replace the MBR. Remember, balance the time
it takes to restore the operating system against the time it takes to recover
data, get a new drive, and install a fresh operating system.
Normally,
disk recovery is simply a matter of recovering the data. Returning a drive to
its previous state is a goal but may simply be more costly than recovering the
data and replacing the drive. How much effort to expend on the process is
entirely up to you and the client.
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